Any one ever used Holley Pro-jection?

[ADOR]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-EFI-F ... QU&vxp=mtr

Another streetmater efi unit has turned up, you can see the bottom, etc of it.

[ADOR]

It fired up today. I had to bypass the fuel pump to my original wiring but it did start and idle on start up settings. I will have to see from there how it goes.

There is a possibility some one wired up the fuel pump wires directly in it's past and blew out a transistor. IF so I can can run it bypassed and it will still run. I will just have to besides being able to kill it with the key switch put a manual kill switch and a inertia switch just incase.

[Shawn]

You could get fancy and run the fuel pump through a relay trigger by the oil pressure.

[ADOR]

Well I got back home from taking my youngest two back to there moms and there was a big puddle of gas under the truck. A line was leaking from the fuel pump and it leaked all 5 gallons out while I was gone. I have the doors open and shop fan on now blowing all the fumes away.

The wife has been wanting a hot rod so I made a deal with dad to get my old 72 comet gt back from him. We got it this weekend. It needs light body work, interior redone and tune up. It has been running good but the wife now wants me to drop what I am working on and do her car with her. She is OCD about little stuff and couldn't stand the tach and some light wires in car and wanted them removed. It was already getting late so I jumped on that. Now the car won't start, lights won't come on and the body has a positive ground. The engine doesn't it's still negative. It's what the battery cable was hooked too.

So tomorrow I will be back tracking wires on the comet and fixing fuel leaks on the 52. Always with the 52 dumping some kind of gas. The carb filled the crank case twice already.

The tach had been in the car sine about 93 to 94 when I put it in originally.

[ADOR]

The amp gauge is shorted out. Taking the wires off of it solved part of it. The radio will come on now, but it still has positive to ground. The light isn't as bright though. Hope tomorrow morning I find the rest of it.

[Shawn]

You definitely need to run that fuel pump through an oil sender and relay. You bypass it in start mode, then in any other mode if there is no oil pressure, the pump won't run. Same type setup is on all Honda small engines.

Body shorts can be tough to find. One trick is to pull the fuses and reinstall them one at a time until you find the shorted circuit.

[ADOR]

The comet is back in full swing with a new gauge cluster, alternator and regulator. Some time this coming up week I will be doing some welding on the floorboards.

Found the engine stuck on my 4x4 it's unstuck now, drained water from oilpan, pulled sparkplugs flushed out then blew it out. Ran it for a second by pouring gas into it. Got to drain the tank in the bed, put in new gas and a couple of other minor things and it's ready to go. I then decided to test my spare engine in the shed and it now seems locked so I am going to have to see what it's problem is as well.

Took the 52 ford for a short test drive on our long side road. Stopped backed up, etc several times. It never tried to bog and die like it was doing, throttle response is excellent, the computer seems to be working fine except fuel pump wiring.

The first time I tested the two wires from the cpu to run the fuel pump I got nothing from the relay. I tested again today and I was showing power. Went to town and found a plug that goes into the fuse holder and allows me to plug the wires into the fuse panel with out cutting wires. Went to put it in and now no power on it again???? Suppose to be if it has a blown transistor on the fuel pump circuit it can do that. I have it running from the original switch on the key so it cuts off like it's suppose to. I may try another relay when I get a chance but for now it's working so I am leaving it alone.

I also relocated my battery back underhood, redid all of my battery cables, shortened the length of starter cable and main cables and have the neg of the battery directly on the engine. (before the battery was under the pickup bed) this has solved my slow to crank issue, must of been getting a poor ground though the frame. This is why I think I must of been having poor starting quality. I have a aftermarket box (MSD 6A) and I must of had a voltage drop while cranking so it wasn't giving it full spark. The battery in it now is a 650 CCA with over 820 CA normally. It starts like my 2005 dodge now.

I have more EFI tuning to do. I started with the base and got mid and idle adjusted. the rest has to be done going down the road so it will be a little bit before I can mess with it. I will be installing a fuel/air ratio gauge with oxygen sensor so I can see what it's doing and compensate manually if needed. Another thought I have had about this efi is if I ever get to take it to a show I can unplug the computer style Plug from the ECU and just take it with me

About a week ago my seat cover came in and tonight I tried it on both seat frames I had. The mini truck seat and the original bench seat frame. Tried the original then the mini truck seat that was mocked up in my truck. It didn't fit right on the mini truck seat, but fit fine on the original frame. So out came the mini truck seat and in went the original. I still need to cut and weld a new bottom frame work for it because I want the seat to fold forward for storage underneath. The cover wasn't but about 25 bucks, when I usually looked for white and black seat covers all I could find were zebra print, not really what I was looking for. Or If I did find it, it was about 500 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Leatherett ... ge_o00_s00

20160416_223706 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

20160416_223718 by Safjist Nipnog, on Flickr

[Shawn]

Intermittent problems are tough. I would do the wiggle test. When it is running, slowly trace the Fuel Inj wires and wiggle them the entire length. It could be bad crimp at a connector or even the copper broken inside the insulation. Bad relay or wiring to relay will also act like that. If it is one of those standard cube relay's, I grabbed one from ebay a while back that has indicator leds on it. Very handy.

Rear batteries are great for weight but the longer distance means a needed increase in cable size and preferably strand count also. Bump the cable up a size or two and I would use welding cable with a high strand count. Not cheap. Or leave the battery up front.

[ADOR]

I have never had much luck with rear mount battery anyway. I did it once in my 67 mustang and I did use welding lead, even used the old tried and true pour hot lead into the ends instead of crimping them. It always gave me problems one way or the other. Wound up moving that battery back front as well.

I just got to get another relay and see. I will have to look for the one with the light.


I got all the bugs worked out on the efi now besides the factory Holley fuel pump wires now. Since that can be bypassed safely that will work fine for now.

[Shawn]

here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-Clear-Car- ... Iv&vxp=mtr